We all know that champagne is supposed to be fabulous but we are too often let down by expensive acidic fizz from this eponymous region. What is really letting the side down is the cheap “diffusion” ranges from the Grand Marques, their top stuff is justifiably expensive. Heidsieck Rare is one of life’s real treats but try a certain wine famous of its very dark label and you will feel very disappointed with the bang per buck. You don’t have to spend lots or be disappointed with bulk champagne for the masses. There is a hidden secret in Champagne and that is grower champagne, artisan producers who can control volume and quality. They don’t have marketing and the sponsorship budgets of a small country to keep up the illusion they the bottle you buy because its supposed to be good, is actually good. Grand Marque champagne really can be a Emperor's New Clothes con-trick.
The Champagne Warehouse specialises in grower champagne, it is unlikely that you will have heard of any of their brands, “Quality Behind the Label” this their motto. Founded in 2000 by Tony Stones, they have the distinction of being the first wholly internet retailer to hold an alcohol licence. In a monastic-like atmosphere I tasted a range of wines, none of whichI had tried before but which surprised me with the consistent quality and, now, having seen the prices extraordinary value. They offer a number of Cava and Processcos but having tasted these after excellent champagne they were somewhat over-shadowed. Top producers from the day included Roger Legros from Prouilly north of Riems, Jannison et Fils in Verzenay, Montagine de Riems and Charles Ellner from Epernay
Roger Legros Brut £24.99
Predominately Pinot based, pale with a steely gold colour, balanced nose with a reductive edge, lots of layered fruit, hint of blackcurrant jelly.Roger Legros Rosé £23.99
Onion skin colour, caramelised apples with strawberry, light brambly fruit with soft acidityG Tribaut Grand Cuvée Spéciale £29
Chardonnay from 2006 and Pinot Noir from 2008, this wine is clean, dry and fresh with pears, quince and sweet Mirabelle fruit. Great toasty mouthful of boiled sweets and cleansing acidityCharles Ellner Brut Integral £29
60/40% Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from old wines, 2003 and 04 this is great, fully reductive toasty brioche steely apple acidity, great balance and a long, mouth cleansing finish.Charles Ellner Cuvée de Réserve £25
Chardonnay dominated wine from 2003/04 wines, this has rich brioche from 6 years on its lees. There is flint and soft fresh leafy fruit. A great wineCharles Ellner Premier Cru £28
Again this wine is mostly Chardonnay with 9 years on lees, it is mostly the 2002 vintage. It is pale gold, rich reductive almost honeyed, it has nose of delicate honeysuckle, lemons, flint, brioche and Mirabelle plums.
Charles Ellner ‘Seduction’ 1999 c£35
Only 200 bottles of this antique style are produced in exceptional years, the Chardonnay is aged in oak prior to bottling and it spends an incredible 11 years on its lees. It is bright rich straw colour with a reductive/brioche flavour, think tarte tatin, quince and patisserie. Great length and a hint of burnt lemon. Incredible!Jean-Paul Morel Carte Noir £24
This Pinot Noir led wine is pale straw with a full brioche nose. Rounded apply freshness with gooseberry/greengages, a fruit led fizz, its very classy. Reminded me of sherbet dips with a liquorice stick.Jannison et Fils Brut Traditional c£24
Pale gold, fizzy pear nose, an explosion of bright fresh fruit; pears, quince and English apples. Perk acidity. Wow!
