I went along to the trading tasting last week, there was a staggering selection of Italian wine on offer and understandably super-market Pinot Grigio, Lambrusco and Chianti was is short supply. Italy is a country that always surprises me with its quality and variety, it is such a shame that most of what we drink is mediocre or plain bad. Imagine a country where Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet (CSBC) are rare rather than ubiquitous? So often when trying Italian wines I find myself enjoying them in their own right rather than trying to figure how they compare to the (perhaps excellent) identikit producers in the 30km radius.
The challenge for Italy in the modern era is attracting customers who have become wine drinkers in a world of clear labelling and consistent quality in a price band, particularly in the sub-£10 arena. The supermarkets lead the consumer here and this is where I fear the global march to CSBC is turning Italian producers away from their greatest strength, their indigenous grape varieties. The good news is the quality that is appearing in names that have reputations for bland or uninteresting wine, Soave and even Lambrusco. There were a large number of producers who clearly had embraced modern techniques and enhanced the quality of wine on offer.
Here are some of the highlights;
Bianco Maggiore Grillo 2011, Cantina Rallo, IGP Sicilia (£15)
Lovely and concentrate from low yielding grillo grapes, a dry Masala finish but with fresh zesty fruit
Roero Arneis 2010, Bruno Giacosa, Peidmont (£21)
Top quality white wine from Barolo, intense and aromatic with a clean citrus finish
Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006 , Romano Dal Forno (£240)
The Dal Forno winery nestles in the foothills of Monti Lessini and production is tiny. It takes an astonishing six vines to produce one bottle of Valpolicella, and an eye watering nine for a bottle of Amarone. The concentration in the wine is incredible, thick black fruits, great complexity and superb balance. This wine is superb and will develop over the next 20+ years.
DOC Valle Isarco Gewürztraminer Aristos 2011, Cantina Valle Iscarco
Alto Adige is Italy’s most northern province, up in the Southern Alps it makes wines in a cooler style, with a strong Germanic influence. This wine comes from one of the colder areas in the region and is typically planted on the south facing slopes rather than the valley floor. It has all the tropical spice you might expect from Gewürztraminer but it does not overwhelm you. A great clean finish and super balance.
Jema Corvina Veronese IGT 2007, Genardo Cesari, Veneto (~£15-20)
Corvino is one of the principle grapes used in making Valpolicella but can only be labelled such when blended with rondinella and molinara, hence the IGT designation for this wine. Aged in wood for two years, this has plenty of dry leather and sweet cherry flavours. It is more modern, new world style than better known wine from this venerable producer.
Amarone delle Valpolicella Classico DOC 2007, Genardo Cesari, Veneto (£25)
A more typical style, with great intensity and complexity, soft and rounded on the palette, it has plenty of sweet cherry and leather. Lingering finish.
Amarone Delle Valpolicella ‘ Il Bosco’ Single Vineyard 2005, Genardo Cesari Veneto (£38)
More sweet cherries and leather, this time with great depth and spice and chocolate notes, very smooth with plenty of body.
Soave Classico DOC ‘Foscarino’ 2010 Azienda Agricola Inama, Veneto (£20)
Made from 100% garganega grapes from 40 year old vines, this wine is barrel fermented. It has great flavours of toasted almonds, with a hint of spice and oddly, peat. A wonderful, clean and herbaceous wine.
Morellino Scansano 2009, Roccapesta Toscana (£18)
This area of Tuscany is close to the sea and give this wine a cooler feel. There is lots is sweet brambly fruit and vanilla, with a back note of rosemary.
Calestaia Morellino Scansano Riserva 2007 Roccapesta Toscana (£30)
Made from old vines and 100% sangiovese, this is a wonderfully concentrated wine, with lots of black cherry fruit and leather. It is still coming together but plenty of potential.
Fiano Pietrariccia 2010, Masseria Surani, Puglia
Fiano grapes from down at the heel of Italy. A wonderful clean white wine, a surprising big body with aromatic flavours, sage and apple with plenty of crisp citrus flavours
Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC – Vigna Cristo 2011 Cavicchioli Emilia Romagna
Even a wine style as derided as Lambrusco (the grape variety too) can have great examples. This wine is candy pink with fine white bubbles, its is crisp and as a dry as a bone. Despite the dryness, the favour can described as strawberries and sherbet. A very pleasant surprise.
Santannella 2010, Mandrarossa, Sicilia (£17)
A mix of Italian (fiano) and French (voigner & chenin blanc) this is a great example of how modern styles are transforming Italian wine. It has fabulous peachy and almonds flavours with honey & quince from rich chenin fruit too. This is balanced with good minerality and acidity from the volcanic soil on which the vines grow.
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